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The Association of British Counties

Gazetteer of
British Place Names

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Cromartyshire, Scotland

Cromartyshire is a county of the Highlands of Scotland, and certainly the most unusual in form. The county comprising the mediæval "old shire" around the county town of Cromarty along with 22 physically-separated areas scattered across Ross-shire from the east to the west coast. As Cromartyshire and Ross-shire are thoroughly interlaced, it is common to consider the geography of Cromartyshire and of Ross-shire together. With just over seven thousand residents, Cromartyshire is the least-populous county in the United Kingdom.

Type: Historic County
Lat, Long: 57.655067,-4.106874
Grid Reference: NH743647
Country: Scotland
 Explore Cromartyshire on Wikishire

The "old shire" is an ancient shire, which was a hereditary sheriffdom in the family of Urquhart of Cromarty. The county town, Cromarty, stands at the tip of the Black Isle peninsula on the Moray Firth. The town is an historic port, architecturally important for its Georgian merchant houses that stand within a townscape of Georgian and Victorian fishermen's cottages in the local vernacular style. The Black Isle separates the Cromarty Firth to the north from the Beauly Firth to the south.

Cromarty from Sutors of Cromarty - geograph.org.uk - 1247671
Cromarty

In the latter part of the 17th century the sheriffdom was obtained by Viscount Tarbat, who was a most influential man at court and in Parliament in the reign of William and Mary. In 1690 at his instance several detached districts were annexed to the shire by authority of Parliament; consisting of all the lands in Ross-shire which were then owned by him, his mother or his mother-in-law.

The largest part of Cromartyshire is not the "old shire" but the district of Coignach on the Atlantic coast around the fishing village of Ullapool. Coigach is a broad peninsula jutting into the Minch. Coigach is on the north-eastern shore of Loch Broom, with Ullapool at it foot, stretching north from there. It is an area of astonishing but stark beauty, with mountains rising sheer to dizzying heights from quiet lochs. Although small, Ullapool is the largest settlement for many miles around, and is a major tourist destination. The harbour is still the heart of the town, used as a fishing port, yachting haven, and ferry port. Ferries sail to Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides.

Ullapool Beachfront
Ullapool

North of Ullapool, Achiltibuie and its smaller adjoining hamlets form the rest of inhabited Coigach, a traditional crofting and fishing community of a couple of hundred houses sprinkled between mountain and shore on a peninsula looking over the Summer Isles and the sea. The Summer Isles lie off the coast of Coigach, in the mouth of Loch Broom. Only the largest, Tanera Mòr, is inhabited.

Rubh' Ard-na-goine, Tanera Mòr - geograph.org.uk - 435694
Rubh' Ard-na-goine, Tanera Mòr Looking northwards. The village of Polbain can be seen on mainland Coigach behind.

Fannich Forest is another sizeable part of Cromartyshire. Lying in the middle of Ross-shire, it contains several of the peaks of the Fannich range, including Sgùrr Mòr, Cromartyshire's county top. Loch Fannich, under the shadow of the mountains, lies partially in Cromartyshire.

In a part of Cromartyshire west of Dingwall lies the village of Strathpeffer. In the Victorian era Strathpeffer was popular as a spa resort, owing to the discovery of sulphurous springs in the 18th century. The pump-room in the middle of the village dates from 1819 and the Strathpeffer Pavilion from 1880. The village is still a major tourist destination. Strathpeffer is home to a vibrant music scene and has been described as "The Highland Village of Music".